How to spend a summer in Comporta
Knight Frank’s woman on the ground, agent Marta Espirito Santo, lifts the lid on one of Portugal’s most precious stretches of coastline
A wild, untamed stretch of coast south of Lisbon, Comporta remains a unique corner of Europe. Largely undiscovered, you won’t see fancy cars or global designer brands here, but every summer, a handful of beach restaurants and concept stores come alive with in-the-know jet setters who’ve fallen in love with this tranquil pocket of the Alentejo.
Just 90 minutes from the Portuguese capital, Comporta presents an interesting opportunity for buyers. Homeowners love the area for its tightly protected coastline of low-slung thatched roof cabanas and pristine Atlantic beaches backed by sand dunes and pine forests. Even the traditional little houses in the village – where migrating storks nest atop church towers – cost north of €300,000.
Nevertheless, most overseas buyers are attracted to luxury villas on low-density developments. The new Atlantic Club development is the talk of the town. “It’s very prestigious and unique; prices are available on request,” says Marta Espirito Santo of Quintela & Penalva Associados, Knight Frank’s local partner agent. There’s also a handful of refined, new-built villas available at Numa, Comporta, Setúbal, with prices starting at around £2.4m for a four-bedroom, four-bathroom property.
2022’s edition of Knight Frank’s The Wealth Report predicts an increase of 10-15 percent in prices over the next five years, so now could be a smart time to buy. “There is still a lot of potential in this unique area where building will always be carefully controlled,” says Marta. “The biggest names in Portuguese real estate are investing in the locale.” This growth is helped by Portugal’s ‘golden visa’, a residency permit that comes with a purchase for non-EU buyers, Marta adds.
What, then, can you expect from a summer spent in Comporta? We’ve unpacked Marta’s local knowledge to see you on your way. Just don’t forget your sunscreen.
Our guide to life in Comporta
Sup
Alentejo has a long history of wine-making. Herdade da Comporta, the estate that still owns much of the town, planted a 35-hectare vineyard just 21 years ago and has produced multiple award-winning white, red and rosé wines. Herdade Canal Caveira in Grandola is another noteworthy producer – pick up a picnic and enjoy in the grounds after your vineyard tour.
Saddle up
There are few better ways to enjoy the wild, natural beauty of the Alentejo landscape than in the saddle. Roam at will or ride out to the Sado River, then take to the water in a canoe with Cavalos Na Areia. The ride takes you through rice fields, into the dunes and pine trees to finish with a windswept gallop along the beach.
Stock up
Comporta might be a place for simple pleasures, but don’t think you can’t get your hands on the finer things in life. Peruse the shelves of Mercearia Gomes, run for a century and fondly known as “Little Harrods” for the fact the owner can get the sort of fine foods stocked in London or Paris. Along with the best Portuguese fruits, vegetables, cheese and wines, you can find fleur de sel, lobster, Cristal champagne and caviar.
Relax
An unconsciously stylish crowd comes to Comporta to unplug. Lie on the beach and listen to the waves, or drop into a yoga class and inhale the clean scent of the pine trees that is so much a part of this area. There are treatments and detox fasting retreats too at Comporta Yoga Shala, run by Tomas Mello Breyner.
Shop
Forget global brands and go local. Source everything you need for your new summer home at RICE, the lifestyle shop of Lisbon interior designer Marta Mantero. She’s been furnishing properties in Comporta since 2012 and has another store in nearby Grandola. The concept store of Loja De Cá in Carvalhal is also a must-try for curated handicrafts and fabrics from around the world.
Eat
The go-to beach restaurant for many Comporta cognoscenti is Sal. Loved for its freshly grilled fish, their pargo is especially recommended. Dona Bia is another one to try for its local cuisine and simplicity. At Restaurante São João there are amazing shellfish and cataplanas, rice stews cooked in a spherical pot with monkfish, grouper, razor clams, shrimp, lobster or octopus. Your toughest task will be to choose what not to eat from the vast menu.
Sleep
From rustic-chic rice cabins to contemporary villas, there’s an increasing variety of great places to stay in Comporta, with many one-off properties to discover. Traditional bungalow-style villas with private pools overlook the rice fields at Quinta da Comporta, a striking hotel designed to blend with the area’s traditions. Along with farm-to-table restaurants, there’s a spa that hosts wellness and fitness retreats too. For many, Sublime Comporta is where it all began here – a sleek boutique hotel on a 17-hectare estate just 10 short minutes from the beach. You’ll enjoy a stay either in fine style.
To find out more about property opportunities in Portugal, or to make an international property enquiry, contact mark.harvey@knightfrank.com